Don’t underestimate North Ronaldsay because of its size. Yes, you could walk from end to end and back again in only a few hours, but once you arrive, you’ll realise there’s more to this special place than meets the eye.
Here are our recommendations for making the most out of a visit to Orkney’s most northerly community.
Celebrating North Ronaldsay’s sheep
Almost everywhere you go in North Ronaldsay, you’re reminded about the importance of the island’s unique breed of seaweed-eating sheep. You’re never far from the 13-mile-long sheep dyke that encircles the island, and around every coastal corner you can expect to see some of the woolly characters watching you warily from the shore.
The sheep are kept away from the island’s grazing land because they are susceptible to copper poisoning. The sheep dyke prevents them from leaving the shore where they happily feast on kelp and other seaweeds washed up after stormy weather.
You could spend a day following the dyke on a walk around the island where you’ll meet plenty of the flock, who are notoriously flighty when it comes to humans. You’ll probably spot a few gaps in the wall as you go – with a dwindling population, it’s becoming harder for residents to maintain and rebuild it after wild weather. The North Ronaldsay Sheep Festival was launched to help, with volunteer dyke-building sessions and island experiences, including walks, swims, dances and much more, to enjoy every summer.
The sheep also provide much sought-after wool, which is spun in the island’s Woollen Mill, found next door to the lighthouse. Tours are available of the mill, and you can also visit Rinansay Weavings to see the wool turned into textiles, soft furnishings and more.
Natural world
There are few places in the world better for wildlife watching than North Ronaldsay. The island is an important staging post for migrating birds every spring and autumn when an incredible array of visitors drops in. Over recent years some of the special arrivals have included a red-winged blackbird and a Siberian blue robin.
These rarities are joined by plenty of other species – expect to see wrens, rock pipits, and wheatears, in and around the island’s sheep dyke. Hen harriers and short-eared owls are often spotted over the fields, and herons, whooper swans and greylag geese make regular appearances.
Don’t forget to turn your binoculars towards the sea, too. There are always seals to spot on the shore and in the shallows, and orca, porpoises and whales can often be seen. The island even welcomed a walrus a few years ago!
Guiding lights
It’s impossible to miss the striped façade of North Ronaldsay’s lighthouse when you arrive in the island. It’s the tallest land-based lighthouse in the UK and commands fantastic views over the island and the rest of Orkney – on a clear day you can even see Fair Isle on the horizon. Tours are available, if you’re fit enough to clamber up the 176 steps to the top.
Not far from the new lighthouse, you’ll find the Old Beacon at Dennis Head. The Grade A listed structure was first lit in 1789, helping warn mariners about the dangerous North Ronaldsay coastline.
These days the Old Beacon is closed – the internal stairs were removed in the 1800s – but it’s still a beautiful building to visit. The surrounding common land is full of old kelp pits and crues – small walled gardens used by generations past to grow vegetables.
Beaches and bays
If the island’s native sheep aren’t enough of a seaside attraction, there are also a couple of fabulous beaches to enjoy in North Ronaldsay.
South Bay lies just next to the island’s pier and the nearby Bird Observatory and offers a wide sweep of shallow water and a beautiful sandy beach. It’s a perfect place to spot seals, and you’ll see the local sheep skirting around the shore searching for seaweed too. Sit back and enjoy the views across to the north end of neighbouring Sanday.
Linklet Bay dominates the east coast of North Ronaldsay, the sand here backed by dunes and machair more often seen in the Western Isles. It’s a stunning place for a morning walk around sunrise.
Dark skies
Thanks to its location and next-to-no light pollution, North Ronaldsay is a haven for astronomers. The island was awarded Dark Sky status in 2021 showcasing it as one of the best places in the country for stargazing.
The accreditation from the International Dark Sky Association came after more than ten years of hard work by the local community, including dark-sky measurements, comprehensive lighting surveys, and commitments to preventing light pollution and preserving dark skies.
The island is an ideal spot to catch a glimpse of the northern lights too, and it’s hoped its Dark Sky status will encourage more visitors to arrive during the winter months to experience it all for themselves.